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Old 02-29-2012
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Default OLD FRIDGE CONVERZION

Hey all!
I'm not to good wid reffers But I'm sure we got some here! So any way, let me know what I'll need to make a nice unit, finally got this thing out of the fridge today. I got a link to Xtreme systems so gonna, cruz back there.
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Old 02-29-2012
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*sigh. Yet another underpowered compressor trying to cool a rig post?

I know nothing feel free
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Old 03-01-2012
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*sigh. Yet another underpowered compressor trying to cool a rig post?

I know nothing feel free

Is it, I don't know? It came out of a freezer kept it damn cool...........
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Old 03-01-2012
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Igloo 52 quart cooler mod

drop the evap in cooler full of liquid that won't freeze (Glycol/water solution)

Set up condensore with fan in a place it won't cut off your hand ...........

Guards are not overated

Run poly feed to bottom and return to the top of opposing side seal all penetrations and make sure you can open it to keep full

insulate poly and hook up like standard water, you will however have to insulate the board as you will have condinsation.

Insulating will prove the be the difference in epic and fail



get the best pump you can afford as this solution will have a higher viscosity than plain water making the pump work a bit harder for a living

turn on and have some sub ambient fun
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Old 03-01-2012
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Originally Posted by Witchdoctor View Post
Igloo 52 quart cooler mod

drop the evap in cooler full of liquid that won't freeze (Glycol/water solution)

Set up condensore with fan in a place it won't cut off your hand ...........

Guards are not overated

Run poly feed to bottom and return to the top of opposing side seal all penetrations and make sure you can open it to keep full

insulate poly and hook up like standard water, you will however have to insulate the board as you will have condinsation.

Insulating will prove the be the difference in epic and fail



get the best pump you can afford as this solution will have a higher viscosity than plain water making the pump work a bit harder for a living

turn on and have some sub ambient fun
Thank you man!

This is my plan but keep in mind I'm a total noob with A/C, I have two sets of coils the one with the silver rad is closed the coil that went into the fridge rear(its an old fridge) were cut to get the unit out easier. Still took me over ten hours to remove it, I was gonna put the hoses through the side of freezer an drilled the coil yup!

So that coil first has to be repaired and closed n oiled, would you be so kind to start from there? I know i have to close the loop, wat is the best method, can i use compression fittings? I will also need to fill the unit as it all leaked out when I tried to drill it...............................................

Thank you Witch!
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Last edited by PhIlLy ChEeSe; 03-01-2012 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 03-01-2012
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you have to braze the joints, preferably purging with nitrogen while doing so,

once the loop is repaire you have to evacuate the system and charge it with the correct refrigerant

then you can start building you chiller system
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Old 03-04-2012
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you have to braze the joints, preferably purging with nitrogen while doing so,

once the loop is repaire you have to evacuate the system and charge it with the correct refrigerant

then you can start building you chiller system

How bout I repair the split, evacuation is for moister right? then charge it up with some auto stuff, I'm in the deep wood here.
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Old 03-04-2012
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you will have to repair the split

you will also need to know the proper refrigerant to use with that compressor, it is not optional what to use ........ it is a specific refrigerant

You may be in over your head bro ......
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Old 03-04-2012
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you will have to repair the split

you will also need to know the proper refrigerant to use with that compressor, it is not optional what to use ........ it is a specific refrigerant

You may be in over your head bro ......
QFT. Even a simple google search reveals it is NOT an easy process. Nitorgen I see some guys say is not necessary.

Let me explain why it is used. Which conversely is why LN2 is so readily apparent.

Whenever you braze a joint on piping or more specifically a closed loop like for instance a Water loop you would use to cool your CPU you have to make sure that loop stays containment free. Because first of all everything is shipped open, some people use tap water and/or dyes. plus whatever other containments existed between the tubing manufacturing process or what not.

Now assuming you know basic cooling philosphy you know that SS/Cascade are type of "phase change" cooling.This is the driving principle behind heatpipes for air coolers. Except on a much more volatile level.


Compared to water it is backwards

In a phase loop the heat comes not from the CPU or GPU or whatever you are putting the evap on . The heat comes from compressing the liquid within the loop. In this case special gas with a very specific range of temperatures.

they add oil to the loop to add the compressor, think of it as a single cylinder motor or other wise a an old vaccuum bell jar like you saw in chemistry class

Oil in the phase loop, which is why you leave a air conditioner etc to settle before you turn it on. lubricates the cylinder/compressor. If it gets into the rest of the loop it sits and you do not want that.

In a water cool loop the idea is that heat is transferred to the medium (well honestly it is always transferred to the medium. You cant ADD cold you can only remove heat) which moves the water to radiators that disperse the heat.

In a phase change system. The gas is compressed to a liquid here is the weird part. Compression adds heat, so the coils coming off a compressor are warm. The go through a radiator to shed heat but are not allowed to expand. When they are allowed to expand the absorb so much heat that they can reach sub ambient temperatures. They flow back to the compressor and repeat teh process.

Water however is bizarre. Only naturally occurring substance that expands when it gets cold. IT also make a great insulator. Which is why icehouses are so popular in the sbubzero north. Since water is in EVERYTHING including air, you have to get rid of it in the pipe lines. Nitrogen (is a non combustible gas) that has a very low boiling point. It is heavier than air (despite air being 70% nitrogen) and force out other impurities as it is passed through a line.

Soldering or brazing a joint benefits from passing nitrogen through it in two ways. First it will not develop high pressure because it is already a gas. Secondly it discharges containments through the loop. Most importantly it is a basic gas And thus when heated gives off nothing. A process called "inerting." Which basically means the first two things.
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Last edited by Neuromancer; 03-04-2012 at 11:37 PM. Reason: language
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Old 03-04-2012
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Wow Rich, I am in the industry and that is a very deep explination

When you braze you use a nitrogen purge to remove the presence of air not to burn the inside of the tubing, that causes flaking and can lead to premature compressor failure

Refrigeration loops are a simple process, it uses the latent heat energy of condinsation and evaporation hence the name Condensor and Evaporator, This is an invisible energy souce that once discoved cataplulted the refrigreation era and eliminnating the ice trucks seen in the early 1900's

Here is a very basic picture of a refrigeration loop, instead of an expansion valve most use what you would call a cap tube to meter the refrigerant, that is why many builders have to play with the length of it to maximixe efficiancy
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Last edited by Witchdoctor; 03-04-2012 at 11:16 PM.
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