Good to hear.

40s load was just blowing the a/c directly on the rad. No chiller yet.

I'm not 100% sure 320FSB is stable on the board, but another person said he ran 347FSB on the board. I was running 320x12.5 for a couple weeks with 3200MHz NB/2240HT, and 1707 DDR3. I didn't try prime on it at that setting, but it never crashed. The highest I got it to post was like 334 IIRC. One stick of memory died during mobo swapping and since then my 320x12.5 etc...seemed unstable. Waiting on RMA.

I could try to see how high the FSB will go again. Right now I'm @ 308x13 w/3080 NB-2156 HT, and 1642 DDR3 which works very good....it's prime stable for an hour anyways, which considering I had it stable @ 4242MHz before is stable enough for me for now.

lol....the BIOS(0905 btw) allows you to set the FSB up to 600 :eek: ....why?

So with -20 or 30c should that give me headroom to overclock higher or will I need to venture into much colder territory?

Sorry I must double post to keep the log going. :)

I have the a/c all apart and the evap in a cooler, as you can see from the pictures, for a test run. I managed to not screw anything up and I only had to bend the pipe a little bit.

Does anyone see any problems so far?

Everything seems to be working good until the compressor shuts off which happens to be when the coolant temperature gets to 0c and it's taking forever to come back on.

When I short the 2 wires to the thermostat I get a readout on the screen that indicates a sensor has gone bad, but the compressor does not stay on. It acts as if there is a thermostat attached to it but there is not.

Right now I have the thermostat attached and taped to the side of the compressor to stay warm, but that doesn't work either.

What is this tube sensor thing? It is attached and it is submerged in the tank....do I leave that alone?

I may have to figure out how to just straight hot-wire it or something. Fortunately I haven't cut the shaft off yet, just in case I can't get it working. We'll get it figured out though.:thumbsup:

Ohh I almost forgot...... Tested today 340x10 would not post, 335x10 I got a BSOD, and 330x10 passed 5 runs of IBT maximum stress level.

I got it figured out!!!:ohcrap:I posted again.


It was that tube sensor thing.....I just removed it from where it was attached to the tube 6" deep in the reservoir. Now it's hanging out where it's warm along with the thermostat. Finally sub-zero!!!! More frosty pics coming right up..........:)

0 Fahrenheit/-16c in this one. -20c right now though:clapping:COLDER COLDER!!!

EDIT: ohh look at the frost in this one. Simply amazing. UPDATE: been hanging right @ -22c for seems like a couple minutes now............ahhh -23c now.:blink:

UPDATE: -27c

................and check this out too. http://hwbot.org/community/submissio...6_mhz?new=true

I wanted to join the OCAlliance team, but didn't have the password. Can I join?:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbdown: :thumbsup: :thumbdown: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:....9-2 I'm in.:D

UPDATE: -30c after 3 hours. Is the res too big or is that normal? Evap is not completely submerged either if that makes a difference.

It's currently 3 gallons -25F washer fluid, and almost 2 gallons Prestone anti-freeze & distilled water. The mix didn't slush up at all. I have another gallon washer fluid, but I didn't want to put it in because how the fuck am I going to move this thing? Actually 2 people can probably do it pretty easy, just across the room fortunately.

Anyways, it's been a good night. I can't wait to get my board insulated and unleash this beast on my cpu for awhile. :cool3:

Suhweet!!! That looks like a ton of fun :)

Looks like the CHIV wont be enough for the 1055T for e though :( Was really hoping it would push it over 350 at least. (380 + turbo puts it up to 5600MHZ?? I think)

Going to have to look around a little more.

Good show ny! - I'm pulling for you... :thumbsup:

I thought you had it shorted this whole time, the tube thingy is the temp probe that we usually short to keep the compressor on. :Dizzy:

Glad you got it sorted homie :D

I was messing with the room sensor, although I was wondering about the tube sensor when it kept shutting off.:Dizzy:

Tube sensor is @ room temp and the room sensor is taped to the compressor for warmth.

The coolant temp only rose to -15c after sitting there in the cooler for 7-8 hours with the lid ajar. Amazing I say! I'm now running it to see how quickly it gets back down to COLD:)

Nice work man ..........:thumbsup:

Looks like you are having a ball ..........

Check it out....I'm on the team

This thing doesn't cool down quite as fast as I was hoping, but it stays cold.

:welcome: to the Team buddy, hunker down and get to know your peeps.


Pull down on these chillers can take up to an hour and a half in my experience before you reach the best temps possible. :scared:

Thanks Kal-El and OCA for allowing me to join the team so soon. :Hi:

-32c after ~an hour...not too shabby eh?

Welcome to the team buddy.... can you smell the hardware we're cooking?

:ohcrap:

Thanks again. And yes I can.

So I managed to get the chiller tidied up a bit today....got everything level and the evap lines installed. Just need to cut to size some of my support blocks and screw them down....and that's about it. I'm going to be drilling 2 holes in the lid later(where the grommets are) to add my feed and return hoses. I think 1 on each side of the evap will work well, with the return pouring down the side for better dissipation, and the feed at the bottom with a strainer/filter from a Wagner paint gun on it. :cool3:

Probably insulate the board next weekend somehow. Here is a couple more pics....sorry the one is so blurry, must be I moved, but you can still see.
Do you realize the exposed part of the evap still had snow all over it when I got up this morning...and the lid was ajar. Pretty good cooler I guess.

I wonder how fast it would get beer cold. I'll have to try a cold activated Coors light can in there sometime.

EDIT: I had to add 1 more because I got it looking a little better yet. :) Nice and quiet like a good air conditioner with those bricks on top..........I just cannot believe how long that coolant stays cold?

w00t!!!!

Welcome to the team man!!

Oh yah, the coolant stays cold like a mofo in there. I had to wait 2 days once because the frost around the evap was so thick. Once you have enough fluid in the reservoir, recirculating a loop thru it helps thaw out faster.

I'm guessing your anit-freeze mix wasn't strong enough and froze up?

Also, make sure your feed line tube/copper/whatever reaches down to the bottom of the reservoir to pick up the coldest coolant and that your return flows over the fins of the evap if at all possible.

The only thing that froze up was the frost that fell in the coolant. -25F windshield washer fluid seems to work well. I'll change it up if it becomes necessary.

Ohh I must add another picture as I dream about how cold the old 1055T is going to be. I rearranged and made a nice home for the chiller right next to my rig.

Now there is no need for my res anymore correct? Just go chiller>cpu>pump>chiller now? :thumbsup: It's gonna be a nice short loop if so.

as long as the pump is sucking fluid you'd be ok...and alcohol will crack that swiftechy reservoir

Yah, theres not need for a res cuz you got a big fatty res right there, just get the coolant flowing thru the pump and you'll be o.k.. What pump?

Swiftech MCP655-B....please tell me it will withstand the temperatures, and the washer fluid. :blink:

some guys with chilled water had that pump runnin @ -30c

you'll be fine :D

flow rate goes to crap on the swiftech under sub-zero but see what you can get bro ;)

Thanks Hondacity.

But what would be a better pump to get for sub-zero? I could just use the Swifty for the gpus.

I'd like to figure out how to chill that radiator for the gpus just a little so I don't get any frost or wetness, but gpus stay nice and cool.

How about this..........cut a hole in the top of my chiller lid to mount my radiator in, 1 fan blowing in and 1 blowing out. EDIT: I could have them both blowing out if I made some air vents around the lid. Then it would maybe get a little colder than it got on the front of the a/c.....ya think? And the compressor would probably run a little bit more;)

How much of an effect would that have on my cpu temperatures? Pretty much none I bet.

What do you think of my plan? :thumbsup: or :thumbdown:

Air circulation works in two ways...

When the air is colder than XXX it cools XXX if the air is warmer than XXX it warms XXX

If you go second loop... I would just put the rad in the bath TBH... if you place your I/O right like Kal suggested earlier you will get enough medium moving through the fins...

But I am just guessing...never done it myself.


TBH.. it seems like GPUs benefit less from cold than CPUs... at least from what I see on the bot... there are of course exceptions either way.. but ... I would say wait for winter Imean submerge now... but if its too much load for serious Ocing... wait for winter..... get some fan extension cables.. throw your GPU rad out the window :) I kept a pretty decent 0c on my AMD setup with just a 480GTX sitting outside...(and 4 ultra kaze 3Ks pumping air through it ;) )

Unfortunately the VRMS were not getting cold enough so I was still limited.

I would get a DIce pot for the cpu and use the chiller for the gpu/blocks and clock to holy hell!

you need to insulate first bro...

anyways regarding the pump...i just researched pumps cold water...best way to fight cavitation because of slush...

dual pumps is the answer...

hope that helps..

I had already planned on trying it outside when it gets colder.

I considered submerging the rad, but I figured it would get colder than I want. I just want it colder than it would be on regular unchilled water. And I don't want to interfere with the cpu temperature if possible.

I think my idea would work for what I want it to. I don't want to mess with insulating the cards from frost.....yet.

EDIT: I could do that too, but I can't use DICE all the time. So it'd be a pain in the ass.

A chiller cpu block is needed in this hobby. Wonder if Buckeye is up to the task?

Welcome to the team!

I never did a chiller so I don't have much to add. It sure makes for fun pics and it looks like you're having a blast in your subzero excursions.

My chiller experience was tossing the rad outside in 10 degree F weather lol.

Never got frost.. but my house is not insulated well.. Only hit 0C on the software probes.

Personally... I would freeze the CPU and get what you can out of the GPU. only cause of hwbot. GPU just don't scale like CPU under cold. Problem is no one cools the whole card... you can expect the rubber whatever to eventually cool it all but it aint like a full cover heatsink or something...

VRMS get hot still... (VRMs on my 4890 totally limit the clocking ability) I am not a GPU ln2 colling guru though.

(You take that mass versus responsive ness argument and apply it to rubber .. yes rubber cools the whole card but it aint really KEEPing it cool... )

I do have 3 x EK FC-4890 full cover blocks. VRMs should get nice and cool with those if I did go that route. You're absolutely right about the VRMs getting the hottest.

I'm just going to go with air for now I think. It'll be fun to listen to the power of all 3 of those fans going........get drowned out by the sound of the compressor :) In the meantime I can look for a DICE pot, and get everything nicely insulated.

------------------------------------------------
EDIT: I ordered the Dragon Skin

Hopefully it will get here by Friday when I get home from work....it's only coming from Pennsylvania I think.......at least that's where the address on the website is and my money went.

EDIT: I also plan to do something very close to this when I get home from work (hopefully Thursday night).

Sounds like a masterful plan :D

Well I received the Lizard Skin in the mail and I think tomorrow I will apply it, insulate the block, and set up the new loop.

Stay tuned for more pictures. :thumbsup:

Right on, popcorn! :)

Very important questions before I actually go ahead and hook up the chiller today.

I know I asked about this before, but what about the actual cpu socket? What do I do to protect the pins from getting frost? I just read that dielectric grease will melt silicone rubber over time.

When covering the back of the board, can I do the entire socket area or the whole board if I want?

Thanks again Overclockaholics. :Dizzy:

Rule of thumb for me if it is going to be a daily sub-zero setup (24/7) then grease the socket. If not then don't.

There will be lots of times I do not even turn on the chiller (EDIT:...probably NOT), as cold as the res gets.:thumbsup:

I usually use the computer Fri, Sat, Sun and am away at work the rest of the time, Sometimes however, I have weeks off and the computer gets used everyday.

Better safe than sorry I guess. How fast do you think the grease will eat the Dragon Skin, and does that really even matter?

EDIT: grease is pretty permanent right? No way to get it out of the socket?

You will need grease if you don't plan on unhooking the unit on a daily bases to air out is what I am saying. Even if you only plan on using it a few days a week. It isn't permanent but a bitch to get all out. Be careful not to damage your pins.

If you have to rma the board you can wash it out... otherwise nope.. :ohcrap: