Bottom it is than, thanks all.

SO, theoretically, if you're loop is the total distance of 3 feet, you're flow should be 500GPH, 6 feet, 250GPH. Whatever the case, it matters not as long as you have some sorta flow IMO. Eventually the temperatures even out thru the loop and then its a matter of how well the heat is moved away from you're rad. If you have a restrictive block, you'll want a pump with some torque (head) I suppose. Pump and Head, shouldn't ever be apart. ;)

Those numbers were for example only.

All pump's have a swing.

this swing starts at the same elevation as the pump. This has a value in GPH or GPM depending on manufaturer.
from there as you raise evelvation from said pump the swing starts to drop that value as the pump has to work harder to get the water to that elevation.

You could argue that flow rate is important with blocks designed for high turbulance.

These blocks thrive on high flow and high volumes of water. The disapation of heat energy across a rad is often times better with slower flow rates holding the water in the rads longer for better heat trasfer in that part of the system.

so if you are pushing 300 GPM through the block and the temp of the water coming out of the rad is higher than your input water to the CPU you can play with flow rates to maximize what ever the system you have. This is one nice feature about varible speed pumps. If it is colder then you could increase the flow rate for max turbulance at the block for better heat transfer at that point....

Sorry if this does not make sence but heat transfer is a very predictable process that can be controlled by flow rates and temps despite what many beleive. H2O is tweakable and can be controlled with the right equipment...

but in the end no tweaking will gain as much as sticking your rad out the window on a 20 degree night .............LOL

People laugh at ghetto ways to do things, but a rad out the window is ghetto and very VERY effective! :)

Yah I am running like 12 feet of hose right now... but it is VERY VERY effective :)

he hehh

Actually just finished the first half of the case for the watercooled i7 rig *sigh

I am going to pick up some J channel though and make a nice u shaped thing to hold the end of my chill air duct. Might not be as effective as rad in the window... but better than a rad in a warm room for sure :)

Should give me a nice balance of quit gaming rig, and loud extreme clocking rig :)


Also doing a big no no and using the rad to push air into the case... but considering at full power I can cycle the air in the case approximately 6.6667 times a SECOND I am not to worried about that :)

Mine is about as ghetto or redneck as it gets. Partially made of stuff from Wal-Mart :) of all places to get parts for a WC setup but it's working at least. So far, no probs running it that way and the system keeps things cool.

I do have my res mounted higher than the rest of the system on purpose since the MCP655 vario's don't like dry starts and that actually primes the system before I ever turn it on. Yes, the pump I'm running is about the best you'll get for the price range and it's very quiet, handles the load nicely and doesn't dump alot of heat into the loop.

You should show us a pic or two of your setup :)

Already have those posted here:
http://www.overclockaholics.com/foru...read.php?t=815

pretty cool how you made that functional man, Is that a Koolance 120 rad?

Yes it is. Had two setup but only have one right now and the other has been set aside for the moment.