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-   -   Moving into colder waters-build log I guess (http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3140)

rickss69 08-27-2010 06:34 PM

Heck, I would'nt tear it up for a temp probe anyway. Your bench will let you know how far you can take it...I seldom read temps unless pouring LN2.

(Btw, Jor-El has his cpu in as well when it flowed into his socket)

ny_driver 08-27-2010 06:45 PM

Yeah, but I'd really like to know the actual temperature of the block/IHS. It's not that hard to remove the block, I just don't want to mess with the cpu, cuz then I need more skin...or to learn how to use the eraser.

If my chiller bath is -33c, what do you estimate my quad core is running at?

ny_driver 08-27-2010 08:30 PM

My pump died because I was running it on 5v for hours. I'm such an idiot sometimes. Gotta get another pump tomorrow...going to get a 12v marine utility pump @ 200 gallons an hour from harbor freight for $40.

Computer crashed and it took a few minutes to realize why.....finally I got it running again @ default settings and then notice the cpu was @ 63c and the cores were @ ~85c in HWmonitor. It didn't want to run overclocked when it was hot. :keeporder:

Good Night

ny_driver 08-28-2010 01:25 PM

This pump I got is loud as hell, and doesn't work for shit. I have a quiet submersible one on the way now. Should be here this evening.

I admit I reduced the fittings out of necessity, but the hole that actually goes through the pump is smaller than my fittings. It's sucking water .........it sucks my finger up tight to the hose, but the water is just not getting out the other end through the waterblock I guess. It's only trickling out and it's supposed to be pumping up to 4 gallons a minute w/ 50psi.
Anyone know about pumps? I'm going to try a submersible fountain pump, although I am kind of skeptical about it.

The lowest my cpu went was 21c with this pump installed. It was running 4-5c with the other pump that was obviously doing a better job.


BTW...do you think the previously mentioned temps could have hurt my cpu if only for a couple minutes? I'll find out later I guess.

Neuromancer 08-28-2010 02:42 PM

I would solve that blockage problem before worrying about anything else.

Take the block apart and clean it out.

ny_driver 08-28-2010 03:00 PM

It's not clogged, the pump just doesn't have ass enough to push the air out. Simple as that. I even just removed the block and pump to assist in getting the air out and it didn't get it all out. seemed like it was pumping good. hmm going to go with the submersible I guess...less air problems I think and quieter.

ny_driver 08-28-2010 03:08 PM

Is it possible that I fried the chip and the temp sensors are now out of whack? EDIT: nahh it's the air.........It's at 30c right now and rising slowly. Air is so fucking frustrating.

Neuromancer 08-28-2010 03:16 PM

Yeah I have only WCed a few times... I build the rig up with enough slack in the hoses that I can move pieces around while the pump is on to bleed the air. (flip the rad 180 degrees for a few minutes. Tilt the whole rig to the side then the other side...

Never took more than 10 minutes to bleed a system after my first attempt./

But I also never ran 4 blocks in a loop ;)

ny_driver 08-28-2010 03:35 PM

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I just have the cpu in there. But the air in the return line is like a brick wall. I have no idea how I got the last pump going.

With my gpus I have the res above everything and it just bleeds right out.

Here as you can see the end of the return is downhill. If I put the return through the side of the cooler it would work great I bet, but that's a lot of work I don't plan to do.:ohcrap:

I should just let a few gallons out and put a hole through the side, then the air would have nowhere to get trapped. Simple solution, pain in the ass to do. I think I'll try the submersible first though as it should be much quieter.

I'm going to have the same problem with the submersible in the return line. This blows.

Neuromancer 08-28-2010 06:09 PM

Ahh... I see it now...

Yeah you are going to have to keep the pump input line below water level. Not a big deal really although right now it will require removing the liquid from the loop. With a big daddy pump in your last pictures I would not think it would be a big deal as long as you prime the feed line. But... bleeding would be tough.

If there is nothing coming out of the output, there is nothing going in the input. Pressure does not mean much if it is vapor locked by a big ole air bubble...


In theory....


if you have about 3-4' of intake hose inside the cooler... fill it... put your thumb over the end of it... put it all back in the cooler under the water... power up the pump wait a second or two and remove your thumb.. this should provide enough liquid to keep the circuit going.

Not a water cooling guy, but do have some experience with pumps.

you could also use a small pump to prime the feed line for the big one until the loop is bled (should only have to do it first start up...)

ny_driver 08-28-2010 06:32 PM

It's not that easy...the instant the hose goes into the chiller it is frozen like stone. I have my pump below the water line, way below, and I just cannot get the air out of the return line. I need to get another diaphragm pump I think. Wasting days.:blink:

Neuromancer 08-29-2010 05:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ny_driver (Post 52356)
It's not that easy...the instant the hose goes into the chiller it is frozen like stone. I have my pump below the water line, way below, and I just cannot get the air out of the return line. I need to get another diaphragm pump I think. Wasting days.:blink:

Yeah the pump is below the waterline but you probably have a big old air pocket in the feedline since it has to go up from the res.

You should try getting everything setup BEFORE running the chiller (bleeding especially :) )

ny_driver 08-29-2010 07:32 AM

Got it!!!

That awesome SureFlow diaphragm pump I thought I ruined by running on 5v works fine. My coolant just happened to be freezing up at the same time my pump "died", so it seemed to not be working right even on 12v...it was shutting down.

Anyways...I removed 3 gallons washer fluid and added 3 gallons pure Prestone antifreeze. I don't think it will be freezing up anymore. I saw the bath temp was down to -37c last time I chilled it, and it is better insulated now. I took care of the cold piping so it should be colder yet.

I would say 3rd time is a charm, but I tried 2 different pumps yesterday so I'm on the 4th attempt.

This pump will pump air, it doesn't care...it's bad-ass. Not even the slightest bit of hesitation.

Diaphragm pump is the key.

I'm expecting to see all zeros on the cpu and cores today, instead of just the cores. :clapping:

I psyched to fire it up after I shower and eat.:thumbsup:

Happy Sunday everyone.:)

Kal-EL 08-29-2010 07:35 AM

:) :) :) :)

ny_driver 08-29-2010 12:57 PM

Well in case anyone was wondering what was up...I'm having pump problems.

What kind of pumps work @ -30c........what do people use successfully on these chillers? Thanks...I'm pulling my hair out here.:blink: Diaphragm pumps have rubber diaphragms which are hardened by the cold and then don't work correctly. Impeller pumps are way too loud. I'm thinking people must use piston pumps.....

........any info would be great.

ny_driver 08-29-2010 04:38 PM

Well after another days worth of hard labor, I have it working with the loud ass impeller pump. CPU is @ 7c right now, but I've had a lot of trouble getting Windows....computer has frozen up like 3 times...all with some form of overclocking...right now at setup defaults.

I think I may have toasted the chip getting it hot that day when the pump quit working on me and I didn't notice until the computer crashed because that pump was quiet. This pump does not work quite as well as the diaphragm pump, but it wont freeze up. 8c now @ stock....I hope it isn't fried. :shock:

Kal-EL 08-29-2010 04:46 PM

People usually use iwaki pumps, I used a 12v thermaltake (iirc) and it pumped thru -42c, trick is finding the coolant/water ratio that will not freeze up or sludge up and is not overly viscous that the pump will cavetate.

Your board prolly shit something before the chip actually was injured. You may need a good old fashioned cmos clear via battery removal.

ny_driver 08-29-2010 04:58 PM

Memory...so many errors that memtest froze up...lol......thing is I took out the one that was bad before I freezered it and it wouldn't even post...lol again...now the bad one is good and the good one bad. I thought maybe that was the problem.

Wanna hear something weird though...the clear CMOS has something wrong with it. Normally when I press it (not sure if I've done it on this board yet), all the lights go out. when I press this one the lights all start blinking. Gonna have a heck of a time getting another advanced RMA.

If it's ain't thing it's something else.

EDIT: ahh I almost removed the battery too.

Kal-EL 08-29-2010 05:01 PM

Those boards aren't exactly durable as you've experienced and prolly read thru the threads. Good luck tho and pm Shannon, he may be able to assist with the rma.

ny_driver 08-29-2010 05:36 PM

Well it seems that now both of my memory modules are bad...but 1 worse than the other. This one at least works for awhile.

What did you use for coolant in your chiller? How much does it cost. I'm having viscosity issues too I think down at ~ -36c in the chiller.

ny_driver 08-29-2010 05:48 PM

EDIT: I'm happy to say I think the chip is ok and I just have to oc around the memory right now. Everything seems normal now...except I need to use something different as coolant, or maybe just diluted some back the other way to more washer fluid...argggghhhh I spent $30 for 3 gallons antifreeze. This is the most expensive project ever. :blink:

ny_driver 08-29-2010 06:38 PM

Thinned it out with 3 gallons warm washer fluid and the cpu temp has only gone up 2 degrees..lol...its pumping a full stream now where it was only trickling with the high viscosity of the antifreeze at -35c....it will get colder in awhile when the chiller gets chilled again. I just have to stop around 20-25 below Fahrenheit.

Probably with straight alcohol/water I could get it colder.

Kal-EL 08-29-2010 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ny_driver (Post 52526)
EDIT: I'm happy to say I think the chip is ok and I just have to oc around the memory right now. Everything seems normal now...except I need to use something different as coolant, or maybe just diluted some back the other way to more washer fluid...argggghhhh I spent $30 for 3 gallons antifreeze. This is the most expensive project ever. :blink:

Ah the pains of reality, hehehehehehe :taunt:
(I ended up buying 6 gallons of anit-freeze cuz I messed up the first 5 ratios)
Quote:

Originally Posted by ny_driver (Post 52534)
Thinned it out with 3 gallons warm washer fluid and the cpu temp has only gone up 2 degrees..lol...its pumping a full stream now where it was only trickling with the high viscosity of the antifreeze at -35c....it will get colder in awhile when the chiller gets chilled again. I just have to stop around 20-25 below Fahrenheit.

Probably with straight alcohol/water I could get it colder.

Yep yep yep, good luck again bro-chacho :D










(maybe later you can get the OCA Community Dice Pot from Kikicoco and run some dice :D)

ny_driver 08-30-2010 09:54 AM

6 Attachment(s)
Got some good pictures for you guys today...........:)

Wait till' you see the hair inside my waterblock. Shoulda had the filter on there.

First we have the hair (from my cats). then we have a picture of the final insulation job for now on the hoses, then you can see the probe next to the cpu, and finally the whole system, including the new "pump-house" on top of the cooler.

In a minute I will add two of the block insulation job. :cool3:

Kal-EL 08-30-2010 11:02 AM

Ack! Holy hairballz! :blink:

Kitty misbehave and got dunked in Anti-freeze? :laughing:

Glad you got them issues sorted, in for the #'s :D

ny_driver 08-30-2010 11:13 AM

Sorry, the power went out while I was posting the temperatures. A/C chiller and pump are too much on that circuit.

Anyways after pre-chilling the chip with ~-32c coolant for 10 minutes I managed to get the CPU to read 3c @ 4Ghz/1.428 vcore. Currently the probe temp is -3c and software says 6c, but the probe is on the outer edge of the chip. Seems that maybe the software is working ok at this temperature.

I'll try to get the chiller colder before next run. I'll let the chiller run all night and see how cold it gets.

Kal-EL 08-30-2010 11:19 AM

losing temps somewhere or the temp software is just wrong at near 0c me thinks. Just run till it hurts.

Did you prime the thermal interface by running warm for a few minutes?

ny_driver 08-30-2010 11:38 AM

Haven't tried warming up the chip to let the Ceramique even begin to set. Do you think the probe temp sounds accurate? In the sodtware all the cores are reading zero still and the cpu temp says 8c. This pump is pumping so fast the a/c can't continue to cool the res while the computer is running. My internal thermometer says the chiller is @ -30c.

Kal-EL 08-30-2010 11:45 AM

Yah, I think the cores are sub-zero already and the software is innacurate. Next session, warm up the ceramic so it spreads across the heatsink before getting stiff from the cold. A few wprimes at this temp right now will move the ceramic around anyways ;)

ny_driver 08-30-2010 12:05 PM

When I tested out the block while unmounted...ice formed almost instantly on the face of it. I'll get it hot for a few, then I'm going to shut down and let it chill while I mow the lawn. That should improve things. My pump must have finally got fully locked onto the water when I partially removed the inlet/filter to check for debris, because it got much quieter. :thumbsup:

ny_driver 08-30-2010 12:28 PM

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Here is a bonus picture of my GPU loop that seems horribly inadequate with it 90 degrees in here, but it still looks pretty cool.:thumbsup:

Kal-EL 08-30-2010 12:30 PM

Dude, such a killer setup! :D

ny_driver 08-30-2010 01:53 PM

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Thanks a lot! :thumbsup: I put many long days into into and I must say it seems to be working pretty darn good(knock on wood) at the present time. The probe says 26F/-3.3C what do you think...I bet the center is colder than where the probe is by a lot....and I'm only pretty sure the probe is making good contact with the surface of the block(the outer part though). I need a better probe. They must make very thin flat probes.

EDIT: It still does 4.5GHz:dance:

EDIT: Yeah if you compare the pictures that probe really isn't touching the part where the water is hitting.

ny_driver 08-30-2010 04:56 PM

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I just like using my new camera....ok?:blush: Racing @ 4.3Ghz/1.5v....loving it! My other 4890 should be here tomorrow.....I should chill them huh?. And use something else for the cpu.

EDIT: wow look 4.5GHz/1.5v You guys probably aren't as amazed as I am. Seems perfectly stable too. Going to race-test in a minute.

Kal-EL 08-30-2010 06:23 PM

lol, keep PUSHIN!!!! :D

ny_driver 08-30-2010 06:29 PM

Race tested, ny_driver approved @ 4.5GHz/1.5v :blink:

HITandRUN 08-30-2010 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kal-EL (Post 52715)
lol, keep PUSHIN!!!! :D

YES! Keep going mate! I love it! :D

ny_driver 08-30-2010 06:43 PM

Hey another NYer, what part you from?

HITandRUN 08-30-2010 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ny_driver (Post 52721)
Hey another NYer, what part you from?

Upstate NY few miles away from Binghamton. :thumbsup:

ny_driver 08-31-2010 02:07 AM

That's not upstate.....Binghamton is 20 miles from Pennsylvania. Upstate is like north of I-90 I'd say, but people from the city would call Middletown "upstate"....lol

I live half way between Binghamton and Utica on Route 12. Born in Norwich/ live in Sherburne.

Ona side note....My chip is running @ 0 Celcius finally according to PC Probe. BIOS says cpu temp is N/A and HWMonitor just eliminated it all together. Weird. The chiller got down to -45 Celcius overnight. :cool3:


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