Repairing Feser Rads
 

I hacve a Feser quad and a Feser dual that have stress fractures around the fittings, and are thus.. leaking :ohcrap:

May be garbage, but, am curious of what way would be best, if any, to seal the fractures? Thinking about some sort of epoxy, but ????

any ideas?

I mean, man, these things are irreplaceable :ohcrap:

thinking 90 degree fittings werent't the best idea on these thin skinned rads :thumbdown:

jb wled ?

you can try epoxy, sounds like it will work on paper ..........;)


brazing them would be a better solution though , but a PITA

you have to sand them back down to bare metal first to get the rods to stick

using a heavy silver content rod would help reduce heat but they are expensive bastards
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Good luck bro

I have one for sale if you can't get it fixed up

I still have another quad I'm not using, just a bitch to throw them away :wtfsign:

I have some heavy silver epoxy used to cold solder, actually used it to fix a video card, thinking that might work?

It's worth a shot bro ......... :thumbsup:

pics FTW

of what? the vid card? or the rad ? :laughing:

Both ............ :blink:

worked like a charm on the vid card, glued a cap back into place and it came back to life :thumbsup: not sure about fixin the rad though ??

:rofl:

You want pics of a rad that's leaking? won't leak unless under pressure, so, nope :laughing:

where did you get the custom smilies ?

If you do not repair them with JBweld (TBH I am not sure that is no better than standard epoxy) or epoxy (I would not use since it so easily deteriorates little acetone and whoops its rubber cement!)

dont trash them recycle them. Scrappers will probably give you a few bucks for them since they are alum and copper? Average PC tower nets $15-20 from what I hear. Would assume something with no plastic would get close.

Have you tried just heating them up with a torch and a little solder? (if all else fails)

Ohh side benefit. dont wait for them to cool down and put the tubing on. Instant no clamps action! LOL jk

got some of that spray sealant "as seen on tv" lol thinking of trying that :D

All that stuff is just chip guard, I wouldn't bother as the mess will be bad. A brass rod and a soldering tourch, clean the area good with sand paper. Then use flat black to finish it off

yeah, I suspect you're right :ohcrap:

that means I'll have to empty it first :laughing:

yea get high % of silver with flux in the stick. This will melt at a reasonable temp as opposed to copper

If it is copper or brass

Brazing Alloy Rod - Contents 15% Silver - 5% Phosphorus - 80% Copper - Brazing Range 1190 to 1480 F - Container Tube - Industry Standard-Good Near ...

Brazing Alloy Rod - Contents 7.2% Phosphorus - 92.8% Copper - Brazing Range 1310 to 1475 F - Container Tube - Copper to Copper or Brass Joints for ...

If it is aluminum repair these would be doable

http://www.google.com/shopping/produ...w&ved=0CDgQrRI

You will need to watch the fins as they will be wanting to melt at brazing temps, possibly sink off the area with vice grip and wrap wet towles against the fin area on the end that is being repaired ...........



Stop in any welding retailer with the unit and they will hook you up with the best stix for the job

or simply replace unit with no muss no fuss as brazing aluminum is tricky

Think I'm just gonna sand it and use my high silver content epoxy and see how that works. If it works, I can then fix my Feser Duo that sprang a similar leak a year or so ago :P