New Grinder
 

Well anyone who follows this section knows my last build log was a bit to ambisious and turned out to be an epic fail ......... if you did miss and that is entirley possible here it is

http://www.overclockaholics.com/foru...ead.php?t=5226

FYI: I ended up assemeling that rig in a Bit Fenix Colossous, it is a way cool case but I have to say it was less than stellar. Anyway I have decided to go back to my roots and build something that I think anyway will be pretty effin cool.


This is going to be a long protracted build thinking it will go into the summer as some of the parts may not be availible until then. Or depending on what I am reading may decide to stay with SBE.
Anyway I will be starting this build by intergrating the cooling sytem into the case and inserting hardware as final specs become availible

Goal: To build something that looks great and kicks major ass AKA show and go, And practical of course .......... :ohcrap:
http://www.overclockaholics.com/foru...1&d=1362321060

Parts:

Case = Case Labs TH10
Motherboard = MSI X79A-GD65 (8D)
CPU = Intel 3930K
GPU's = 2x eVGA SC GTX Titans
Stix = Team Group 16GB PC3 19200/2400MHz 9-11-11-28 1T
PS's = Corsair AX 1200
Sound = Creative 3D Recon
HD 1 = 2x 830 Samies striped for OS
HD 2 = BFMD for storage and 2x 120GB OCZ Vertex 3 for games and programs
GPU Rads = 2x Coolgate Quad480's
CPU Rad = 2x Coolgate Quad480's
GPU Blocks = 2x EK-FC GeForce GTX Titan GPU Water Block - Acetal w/2x EK back plates
CPU Block = EK-Supremacy - Acetal - CSQ
GPU Res = EK-D5 XRES Top 140 CSQ w/250mm extension
CPU Res = EK-D5 XRES Top 140 CSQ
Pumps = 2x Multi speed D5 pumps
Intake Fans = Xigma XAF-F1254
Rad Fans = Corsiar SP120 Low Noise and Yates 38MM silent's
Fan Controller = 2x Lamptron FC5-V2
Fan Filters = Apevia FF-120BK

Some of the stuff came in today ........ :)



http://www.overclockaholics.com/foru...1&d=1359669645

Off to see the Wizzard ..........

More Pics

Reserved 2

looks great bud!
pretty excited for ya

Love watching these builds.

Reserved for comments :)

Will this be Crysis 3 ready ^^???

Hey WD, check out the Swiftech HD for your CPU water block. Great block IME :)

Doing research on them all .................... :thumbsup:

Shame their are a couple missing, and lack of flow rate info basically makes this graph unusable.

The swiffy does well here for sure

Edit:

Case ariived today, pics added to OP

To summerize you simply can not imaging how big this beast is, Have sworn by Lian Li since 1999
Have had many and loved them. However there is a new kid in town and I am here to tell you.
While you could argue the Lian Li is a bit more vouge and elegant, They are mere toys compared to the professional level construction of the Case Labs product.

For you older gentelman it is Tim The Tool Man Taylor Approved ........... :thumbsup:

completly modular put anything anywhere .... PS bay is large enough to house a single stage with room left over
Maybe next build .......... :laughing:
Can house up to 32 Hard drives or 64 SSD's or any combonation of both. Any MB made will fit and will do 4x480 out of the box and 5x480 with bat adapter. I used an SSD to try to give it some scale

Love that case man, fawkin sweet!

You can use the stock water block that came with the Boreas if you want...not a nickles worth of difference between it and aftermarket if you ask me. ;)

Thinking I will grab a high perorming one when the time comes and if it does not perform better than the stock one sellit for a small loss. This way I will have definative information for the final build spec. I think your are right though, from what I have been reading high flow will serve these temps better than high surface area

That case is a MONSTER!!!!!

WILL YOU BE TAKING THIS TO SMACKS :rofl

It is crazy .......... :Dizzy:
The online pictures are not indecation of how big this really is, Sent an e-mail to Jim at Case labs saying they need to put something in the pics to put some scale to this thing
But it is the ultimant weapon for a wacky build .......... :laughing:

No, my portable is the plywood rack ............. :thumbsup:

This thing will be home base as it will be to heavy to even lift with the amount of water it is going to take to fill it.

Although empty it is light as a feather, 100% Aluminum construction

Do you have a raid card or are you putting the Vertex3 on SATA 3Gbps ports?

Should be fine, will still hit 1GBps transfers and small file size wont be hindered.

Really not sure yet what platform I am going with yet. Fianacially if I want to expidite this I would have to use my current hardware and in that semario, 2 off them would have to roll on 3gb ports.

If I wait it out and that is the plan as of now possbly next gen boards will offer enough 6gb pots for what I hope to do.

No update :P

Which fans are you going to use on the rads ? I keep putting off getting some new fans need some but have no clue wut to get lol

No no updates here, should have fittings showing up to complte the testing on the Boreas, iin another thread. Being that is the first component to be installed in the case this thread is patciantly waiting ............. :blink:

Have not decided on fans, have to do some testing to confirm but it has been narrowed down to (2)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25284

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835181025

Can not seem to find the static pressure on the Yates fans though ??? so I will have to field test ........... :laughing:

What Rads do you have, I am sure we can comme iup with some fans that will work nicely.

I went with a low 8 FPI that will lend itself to these low noise low speed fans, if the fins on your rads are similar thse fans would work well, the tighter the fins the mir air/noise you need to max the efficincy of the rad as they will have a higher drag

I have a black ice gtx 480 radiator with x3 YATE LOON D12SH-12 on pull

Had x4 but kids broke one lol

That is a nice rad, Very tight FPI like 16

300 watt load / water temps above ambient

1000 RPM = 9.86C

1350 RPM = 6.39C

1550 RPM = 5.06C

2000 RPM = 3.3C

3000 RPM = 1.87C

You can see where the this tight fin design of this rad lends itself to High speed fans

This would be optimal for you set up, just make sure you have fan gaurds as these bad boys will cut a finger off and at 44db buy some noise canceling headphones :laughing:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835213005

idk about that 44db :rofl:

If your willing to give up performance

around 1350 RPM looks like a sweet spot as well

These are quite and like 1450RPM with 1.29mm/H2O

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835181025

not a bad price for twin packs either and they have the oohhhh different color rings, Smack would even love them .......... :laughing:

these seem nice idk wth Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 3.1 mm/H2O means :D

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835181027

I don't need super quiet lol

Naw it needs leds and glitter :laughing:

Bling / Bling

It makes it faster ................. :blink:

Just wrapping up a client build for some extra cash ............... :ohcrap:

SWEET :thumbsup:

are you going to push pull on the rads ?

I just notice I wish my house was as clean as yours, wut I get for wanting kids :happy1:

trying to avoid Push pull as I already had to donate a kidney to afford the 20 fans it is going to take, that would add 12 more ......

may have to strap this down to keep it from taking off ......... :laughing:

Also am looking for it to be quit, bought rads that are tweaked for low airflow

Yatelooons - $3-4 a fan :)

Might not be the best looking, might not be the best performer, but they look good enough and perfom good enough and the price is much more pleasant :)

As far as high pressure, ultra kaze 3Ks are pretty inexpensive too

EDIT: maybe not sycthe is hte only place I can find them and they are listed at $12 which is a bit more than i paid IIRC

Going to try out the yates and the SP120's , and see where they stand :thumbsup:

Cool keep us posted :)

Thats gonna be alot of fan cleaning. Have you though about dust filters?

those are def. Bling material. :thumbsup:

The Boreas tesing has been completed with mixed results. I has shown it would be worth while endevor supplying temps 15C better than ambient water on a hot running 3770K Ivy Bridge CPU, This thing would be epic on Sandy. As I do not know what the final CPU will be this is a good enough result to move forward. That being said I will be starting the build beging with the cooling sytem.

Well all pumped up to come home and get started, This is where Epic Fail comes into play, it doesn't fit........ :ohcrap: All the measuring and drawing I have done has made no difference.

I need an 1/8" .......... with no way to get it with out chopping into this case, That is not going to happen on this build, This is my own dumb fault, some how I miss typed the dimensions when sending it to case labs... if it was the demension was supposed to send I would have a 1/8" to spare, sometimes an 1/8" is a mile ............ :blush:

I am completly shocked as you all know what an acomplished typist I ma ???? :scared:

Anyway On plan B and C already , I will be moving forward under the presumption of Ambient air and 4 quads 2 for the CPU and 2 for the GPU's that should still easily produce a formatable gaming rig




Shhhh.............
Secretly in the lab :blink: I will be stripping down the Boreas and working water coupling the blocks to see if I can get a satifactory result that way. mind you I will be loosing the capacity of two blocks and TEC's so temps may be less than stellar to spite a more effective way of removing the heat ....

But you never know unless you try .............. :laughing:

If it does work fabbing up a rack for them that will easily fit will be a piece of cake :thumbsup:

Bummer WD, sorry to hear about that :ohcrap:

I'm thinking 4 quads should be more than adequate though :P

So what doesn't fit ? I'm lost lol

So the case was a custom made to your specs ?

Wow, I appreciate that Rick, However I am diggin the new case to spite this set back. I am not out of the game yet and may be able to use it in a different config, if not I will still have it for benching and a future build. With wattage and efficincy at the forfront of CPU and GPU tech the Boreas can only become more relevant as tech gets better.

Thanks Bro .......... :thumbsup:

If you water cool those tecs, that would be sweet. use one quad for the tecs. tecs straight to CPU. 2 quads for a GPUs... If you do add a quad for the cool side of the TEC loop, try it with no fans then low speed fans first :)

There is always the option of insane TEC cooling as well. Say 200w?

It is $45, but bear in mind it needs a power supply/regulator those uh, 24v maxwells (?) that people started using for GPUs a few years back

http://www.newark.com/multicomp/mcte...00w/dp/08P1466

another consideration, getting some 15V units and just running them at 12v (they dont sell 12v)

Costs a bit more, on tec side but you could actually run them off a PSU... 2x15v 130W TECS at 12v = probably close to 200W cooling without needing separate PSU...

Yeah I know it wont look as cool as the Boreas either.

I have Zero experience with TEC's ........... :ohcrap:

So the biggest hurdel is learning how they work to be able to impliment action. Right now the plan is to take them off the Boreas, use two of the 4 to cool and the other two disapating the heat off the twoi cooling TEC's ... Just sandwitching them if you will to meet surface requirments, if that makes any scence at all, problem is I will cut my capacity in half and in doing so will the water heat disapation make that much of a difference gain back 100% of the performance as that would be the break even to air coupled, TBH I would be happy with that or a little better. Right now the unit does 15C better than ambient water, not sure if you saw my results table a few pages back, but here it is again if you didn't. Being I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer is there any math that can give me the answers I need based on rad surface, air speed across the rad and pump flow rates based on the output wattage of the TEC's and if so does anyone here know what the formula would look like if I could plug numbers into it ?

One thing is for sure Rich, if it works I will make it look good doing it ........ :laughing:

first of all...

dont sink more money into this.

TEC cooling was really popular about a decade ago but was quickly realized to be an inefficient way to subambient cool.

If you are not getting subambient temps with your TECs then you are REALLY inefficiently cooling.

Here is the thing.

A TEC works by adding say 200W of electricity into this device and removing 150W of heat. It does not move it far, just from one side of the TEC to the other. Now after adding all that power to the TEC you still have to cool it.


Historically, a TEC is mounted to a CPU, then a waterblock is mounted to the TEC.

the boreas uses muliple TECs instead ofa single unit for the following reasons.

1) if on TEC fails the others are not affected
2) using multiple units allows one to space out the heat shedding to make a air cooler more efficient than a single 130W load.
3) Smaller TECs tend to be more efficient than larger ones
4) and this is related to 1/2 & 3.. cooling the hot side of the TEC more efficiently leads to better efficiency on the cold side.
5) smaller tecs used to be WAY cheaper than large ones so it was cheaper to run multiple smalls than a single large.


the problem you are having is temp swings. so what you need is a large mass to help maintain temperature levels (just like a LN2 pot or something) So try a copper clug or an alum one.


Realistic Ideas I can think of in your situation. (Honestly I would straight water cool, because hte increased electric cost for running the TECs and NOT getting subambient cooling is not worth it)

a) single high wattage TEC on a large copper slug mounted directly to CPU. Hot side goes to a waterblock and a single quad rad is capable of shedeing 5-600W of heat IIRc.. the lower the laod the more effective, like anything except electricity...

b) build yourself a watercooled boreas. the idea is basically you are removing that giant air cooled part and replacing it with a waterloop. Since I doubt all 4 of those tecs fit on a single waterblock you will probably be left with some kind of aluminum or copper block mounting. to get everything connected.

c) screw it, fuck ivy bridge, go back to SB and get yourself a nice waterblock and run single digit deltas with a single quad rad :)