Some pictures of a bathroom i am remodeling.
 

My latest project. Remodeling a bathroom in a 1930's Sears kit house. This house is just built like you wouldn't believe. the walls are 1x3 studding. The floor joists are 1x5 and the ceiling rafters are 2x3. Its a good thing they are all 12" on center or the thing would have fallen down years ago. I had to beef up everything. I put Pressure treated 2x10's in under the floor to support the weight of all the tile work and restudded al the wallls so i could insulate. Unfortunaty all i could use on the walls were 2x4's because we didn't want to lose the space. But at least they are insulated from the cold now. The shower will be enclosed with 1/4in plate glass. And the nw cabints are going to be made of cherry. The home ownr has pictures of the old bath i will be getting from them to show. I have about 2 more weks before i am done. More pic whn i'm finished.

More pics.

Nice work man,

Looks like it is turning out sweet ......... :thumbsup:

Dig the cobblestone floor in the shower, and getting out on that warm floor will be nice.


Mad skills my friend

Very nice work. I was wondering why it looked like you spackled the floor in the first post till I saw that was heated floors. (I did not seal the backboard on when I did 500 sq ft of indian slate tile at my aunts house. but I did not do heated floors either).

Great craftsmanship :)

thanks guys. The stuff i put over the heated floor is a self levling mortar made by Latticrete. it gives you a nice smooth and level surface to put your tile on. If i wasn't heating the floor i would hav just laid the tile on the backerboard with thinset.

Yeah I was talking about this picture

http://overclockaholics.com/forums/a...8&d=1292755901

I never tiled a BR before, so maybe you are supposed to seal that too. For most floors you leave a gap

Your copy/paste didnt show what pic but, All joints should be sealed and taped with fiber tape and thinset. You should leave a gap yes but only so your thinset can make the joint complete. If you don't you run the risk of your joint expanding and you tiles will crack at the expansion joint. Not only that. durarock has tapered joints like sheetrock and it helps to kep the tiles even and flat if you fill the joints. Honestly it's all about personal experience in the field of building and remodeling. I've been in this business for 30 years. I've seen people do things differently the whole time. Everyone has their own method and they all have the same results. And, in the end all that matters is a satisfied customer. And that final check. lol

Fiberglass FTW....:taunt:

I agree. They're about 5k cheaper. Thats what i own. lool

Very nice work Dukester.