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Water Cooling Chilled And Ambient Setups...

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  #21  
Old 11-10-2009
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May need to think about a second loop or you will sacrifice temps on the CPU ......

Question is are the thermal gains worth it ..... depending on the bench I would say possibly .. but a second loop no sacrifice would be required... just like everything it is a matter of economics .... and obviously from the picture the outside ambient will be a large factor in this as well .......

Good luck .... if you try it I would be intrested to see the before and after temps with outdoor ambient being static if possible ..... It would shed some light on how effective these quad rads are ....
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  #22  
Old 11-10-2009
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Ah well, I ran out of money and the 295 hydrocopper sold for $276 :(

In retrospect I should have just bid more and found a way to come up with the money in the next 3 days, now I am looking at spending over $300 for an air cooled version WTF?

Looks like I will be getting a decent silent midrange ATI card for my main rig and throwing the 4890 back on the i7 instead (oh yah like thats a complaint LOL)

Really wanted to try out 200 series, but them's the breaks. It is really hard justifying the expense on an nVidia card now, since it is all they have out, the prices are not dropping to meet the performance level :( With GT300 not coming out for another 4-6 months probably, I expect there will be no price drops in the near future either.

And yes I am very frugal :p
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  #23  
Old 11-10-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neuromancer View Post
Holy cow. 20 minutes to get one hose on the pump. So tight it does not even need clamps (I put one on anyway, but doubt it will be effective since it was hard to get to even one click with it
Sorry I didn't catch this earlier but here's a tip for future reference. You can use HOT water to soften the end of the the tubing so when you go to slip it onto the barb, it will slip on easier. Just do it quickly once the end has been heated and it should be a breeze. You did the right thing by placing a clamp on it anyway however tight it may have been.
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Old 11-10-2009
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Yah, I almost resorted to that but I figured out a another method. Second Pump tube took only 2 minutes to get on

(use your fist like an "anti-kink" sleeve around the tube. Put it at 45 degree agle to barb, push and push and push. then Pull the tube towards the "high side" maybe pull the tubing back off a little to get it even and push some more )

The "sleeve" works to keep the tubing from just crushing up against the barb and not going on
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Old 11-10-2009
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Missed that last one too, hair dryer works too.
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  #26  
Old 12-03-2009
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Vertically mounting a radiator.

Should barbs be at the top or the bottom of the rad?
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  #27  
Old 12-03-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neuromancer View Post
Vertically mounting a radiator.

Should barbs be at the top or the bottom of the rad?
In your case, with the height of that rad, it has to be the bottom. If not the barbs will end up about 3 feet over the case
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  #28  
Old 12-03-2009
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LOL well the case is being built to hold the rad...

Which is better for performance?
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  #29  
Old 12-03-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neuromancer View Post
LOL well the case is being built to hold the rad...

Which is better for performance?
Either way the water has to travel up then back down. I'd keep the barbs at the bottom though, just my two cents.
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  #30  
Old 12-04-2009
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Agreed ... it does not matter in the laest

what matters is the head ... which it the total height the water has to travel in the system. The lower the less head. This is how pumps are rated ...

so for example you may have a pump that can do 4' of head at 400 GPH but with 3' of head that same pump would be able to do 500 GPH ....

so the lower you can keep it in reference to the pump location the better

tube length also goes into it but is not as much of a factor as head pressure.

there are formulas for head and drag so you can figure out your exact flow rate based on the real world application as well as knowing the specifications of the fittings you use.
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